Heavy Lifting

We have been working on the lifting rig to facilitate flipping the boat over.  Using some ideas from several other boat restorers, we made two wooden frames for lifting the boat for flipping.  Using doubled 2x4s and single 2x6s for headers, we bolted the frames together.



Four inch wide, thirty foot long recovery straps were ordered.  We also fabricated two rollers to hang from chain hoists to loop the straps through.  The keel rollers were turned in a lathe to remove the angled shoulder and allow the strap to run flat on the roller.

Our 18 year-old daughter helped setup the lifting rig.  We used the rafters in the garage as additional support, clamping the vertical supports to the rafter.

With everything setup, we are now ready to turn the Resorter over to begin work on the bottom.

Here is a time-lapse video of the building and setup of the lift rig.

Lower Transom

While waiting on some parts to complete the flip over rig, we decided to remove the lower transom plank.  We have known for quite a while the lower transom bow has delaminated, and were expecting a little rot in this area. Inspection of the port cheek area from inside the boat did not look bad.

The worst area of delamination of the transom bow is starboard, between the keel and engine stringer.  Most of the black areas are buildup of grease and dirt.

Exterior inspection was a little different.  Under the transom guard are some attempts to repair or at least slow the leaking.  This was the first indicator there may be more trouble than initially thought.  It is difficult to see in the photo, but the lower transom plank is pushed out of position about a quarter of inch at the bottom.  In addition, the topside plank has a substantial gap at the seam.

So we dug out all of the putty and bungs covering the screws to remove the lower transom plank.  A few extra screws were added at some point in her life to the port cheek area in an attempt to “stabilize” the area.  There were about 10 screws that did not back out, they just spun.

With the plank off, we got our first view into the actual work needed to make the boat safe again for use.

The transom bow and cheek are quite rotted, more than the internal visual inspection had revealed.  These hidden areas need thorough inspection and poking with an ice pick to reveal rot, especially when you are looking to purchase a boat.



It looks like we will be purchasing a little more white oak for frame repairs than originally anticipated.

And We're Off!

Well, it has been many months of distractions from the boat, but we finally were able to get the boat off the trailer in preparation for turning over.  We spent time rearranging the garage to make room to work, and recently, doing some repair work to the shipping cradle so the boat could go back on it for a little while before the actual flipping over.

To lift the Resorter off the trailer, we attached the chain hoist to the header of the garage door for the front lifting eye, and the engine hoist for the rear lifting eye.

Once the trailer was out from under the boat, we rolled the shipping cradle back under and pushed the boat back into position so the trailer could be put away in the garage.

Here is a short time-lapse video of the work.

Internal cross bracing was added to provide support in preparation for flipping over.

Next task, building the flip over rig.

Tools

We have been collecting the tools needed for the restoration work.  We recently purchased a Delta bandsaw listed on Craigslist.  The saw was listed as part of an estate sale and looked brand new.  It also included the mobility stand and was 1/10^th the cost of a new bandsaw.

Jorgensen bar clamps in 6” and 12” lengths have been accumulating, waiting for woodwork to begin.

W.L. Fuller taper point drills with counter sinks and stops, and a 3/8” plug cutter have been purchased as well.  The taper point drills are needed to allow the silicon-bronze screws to join the white oak frames together without splitting the framework, and also to countersink the screw head for covering with a mahogany bung or wood filler.
 

We have also been building tools.  Two dollies were made to set the over-turned boat on, from the yet to be built flip over rig.  This will allow moving the boat around the garage once out of the flip over rig.

This pile of wood parts was turned into sawhorses that will support the over-turned boat by the engine stringers.

They are adjustable to allow for leveling the boat using wedges under the support block.  The sawhorses are easy to disassemble, the plywood panels screw to the legs, so we can get them under the boat.

Removing the Engine

The engine was removed on Mother’s Day.

To get the engine hoist in far enough, the port trailer tire and fender needed to be removed.  We set the spring plate on 2 stacked 4”x4” pieces of oak which lowered this side of the boat for a little more clearance.

We attached the safety chains to the lifting eyes and adjusted the lengths a bit to lift the engine straight up.  A double-check that all items are disconnected, and the Gray 4-750 is ready to lift out.

A perfect fit on the cradle and the engine is ready for storage.

A few more items to remove and the boat will be ready to flip over.

Interior

If you are following our Sea Maid blog, the November 22, 2011 post discusses the purchase of the interior kit while on a visit to Michigan. The interior kit was purchased for the Resorter as well.  The Resorter’s original interior is in fair shape, but is pretty fragile due too age.

The vinyl was sprayed a bright red, and several of the front bottom cushions are torn.  One of the rear seat bottom cushions was replaced after being lost by the previous owner and the color does not match the sprayed original pieces.

When we purchased the boat, the linoleum flooring had been removed.  New flooring was purchased but not installed.  The spray job on the interior was done nicely and everything is evenly covered.  Finding a larger area for color matching was difficult.  We were only able to find a small area on the back of the instrument panel that was protected from the sun and not sprayed.  So a small piece was cut off and sent to A&A Marine for matching.

We just got color samples for both projects and will be choosing the closest colors and grain as possible.  Soon, we will have a new interior to store while woodwork is completed.

Side Projects

The first blog post talks about finishing some house hold projects before starting on the major work restoring the boat.

Work on the master bath had been progressing steadily until the first week of December.  It all started on a Sunday, when the water heater sprung a leak!  I had been in the garage, no water on the floor, but 5 minutes later while retrieving a cardboard box for my wife I was splashing thru a river of warm water.

I don’t blame it, being nearly 20 years old, rusty and neglected.  I had been thinking of replacing it with a tank less water heater, but now I had to do the research and get it installed fast.  The rest of the family does not care for cold showers.

To install the tank less water heater, the cold water outlet and hot water inlet had to be relocated, gas line rerouted and resized, an electrical outlet installed and a new flue/air vent installed.  Monday after work the old water heater was removed, and drywall removed to access the water and gas lines.  Tuesday, our neighbor who works for a plumbing company, was able to order all of the necessary parts.  I worked thru the plumbing changes on paper and made a parts list, lots of copper fittings, and iron pipe and fittings.  Wednesday was spent buying the pipe and fittings.  Thursday during lunch I picked up the ordered parts and after work read the installation manuals.  Friday was spent preparing for the piping retrofit on Saturday.  Saturday the water was turned off, pipes cut, fittings sweat soldered, and outlets temporarily capped for a leak test, no leaks.  Then the gas was shut off to reroute and upsize the heater and water heater gas line, again no leaks.  A new electrical box was added.  Sunday started with the water heater isolation valves being prepared, one successful, one not.  Heating the valve the brass housing cracked.  Being a specialty valve, none were available locally, so we fabricated a temporary bypass and will replace with a new valve in the near future.  Holes were cut thru the stucco wall for the flue/air vent and condensate drain line.  Finally, the water heater was mounted on the wall, gas and water connections made, and the control panel connected.

After about 30 minutes double checking the installation and checking all settings, the unit fired up successfully!  After a week of cold water we are taking hot showers again!